Selecting a Responsible Breeder

By Alana Brantley, ABCDT

Selecting a reputable breeder is your foundation for a healthy, happy dog. A well-bred puppy offers the best shot at good health, stable temperament, and a long life with you. This guide outlines essential standards and red flags for any breed, empowering you to make informed choices. Ready for personalized help? Explore my Comprehensive Puppy Prep Program for expert guidance.

Minimum Recommended Health Clearances and genetic tests

Reputable breeders screen for inherited risks, with results documented in a professional, public database like the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA.org) or equivalent. Always request official records—never rely on verbal assurances—and verify they match the litter’s parents.

Hips: OFA or PennHIP evaluation at 24 months or older
Elbows: OFA evaluation at 24 months or older
Eyes: Exam by a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists within 12 months pre-breeding.
Heart: Evaluation by a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (Cardiology) at 12 months or older.
Genetic Testing: DNA tests for known hereditary diseases in the breed with at least one parent clear.

Additional Genetic Testing

Beyond the basics, reputable breeders test for breed-specific genetic variants. Every breed has its own set of additional tests recommended by the national breed club. Check the parent club for your breed (e.g., Labrador Retriever Club, German Shepherd Dog Club of America) for specific testing recommendations. Ask about these based on your chosen breed; reputable breeders will have answers.

Green & red Flags

  
        ✅ Green Flags (Good Breeder)
        🚩 Red Flags (Questionable Breeder)
      
        Titled parents: Dogs proven in conformation, sports, or work — showing sound structure and temperament.
        Untitled dogs: No proof of quality but still bred. May claim “champion lines” without actual titles.
      
        Focus on health & temperament: Structure and stability come before appearance.
        Appearance-driven: Breeds for off-standard colors (e.g., “English cream” Goldens, “red” Labs, merle Poodles, lilac Frenchies).
      
        Standard sizes: Dogs bred within the breed standard for size.
        Extreme sizes: “Teacup” Yorkies/Poms/Chihuahuas or “XL/Giant” Shepherds & Pit Bulls.
      
        Appropriate puppy age: Puppies go home at 10–12 weeks, giving extra time with their dam and litter to learn social skills.
        Too young: Puppies go home before 8 weeks (illegal) or at 8 weeks, missing key interactions with their dam and litter.
      
        No early sterilization: Doesn’t require spay/neuter before 12 months (18–24 months for large breeds), in line with current research on long-term health.
        Early sterilization required: Contract mandates altering before proper development.
      
        Early socialization: Puppies handled, exposed to sounds, surfaces, grooming, people; may use ENS.
        Poor or no socialization: Socialization is limited or breeder is unable to answer questions about their socialization protocol.
      
        Foundational training: Starts crate training, potty, or litter box training before puppies go home.
        No preparation: Puppies leave with zero training foundations.
      
        Lifetime responsibility: Breeder takes back dogs at any age to prevent shelter surrenders.
        No responsibility: Won’t accept dogs back; “no returns” policy.
      
        Transparency: Allows visits, video calls, and provides references from past buyers.
        Secretive: Refuses visits, won’t show dam, insists on off-site meetups only.
      
        Health guarantee: Written coverage for genetic/congenital issues, with clear resolution terms.
        No guarantee: Offers little or vague coverage (e.g., “7-day warranty”).
      
        Puppy care: Vet-checked, vaccinated, and dewormed with full records provided.
        Neglects care: Puppies sold unvaccinated or with no valid documentation.
      
        Litter frequency: Dams bred occasionally with well-spaced, planned litters.
        Overbreeding: Dam bred every heat or back-to-back litters.
      
        Balanced contract: Clear, fair terms covering health, support, and buyer/breeder responsibilities.
        One-sided contract: Focuses only on payment or includes unreasonable demands.
      
        Buyer education: Provides a thorough puppy packet with training, feeding, and veterinary guidance.
        No education: Puppies handed off with little to no instructions or resources.
      
        Buyer screening: Requires an application and asks thoughtful questions (children, yard, other pets, work schedule, goals) to ensure the right fit.
        No screening: Sells to anyone with money; no application, no questions asked.
      
        Advertising: Professional, fact-based language emphasizing health and structure.
        Gimmicky ads: Uses buzzwords like “rare color,” “hypoallergenic guarantee,” or “Disney dog.”
      
        Breeder involvement: Active in breed clubs, follows Code of Ethics, competes in shows/trials.
        No involvement: Isolated, dismisses breed standards, avoids clubs and mentoring.

Crate Training Done Right

Quality breeders prepare puppies for solo crating:

Gradual introduction, starting with small groups or pairs, then individual crating to avoid shock at home.
Positive associations (e.g., feeding in the crate) to make it a safe space.
Acclimation to airline carriers for stress-free travel.

Questions to Ask a Breeder

Can I health test results for the parents?
What titles or achievements do the parents hold?
How are puppies socialized before going home?
What support do you offer to puppy buyers after the sale?
Do you require spay/neuter, and if so, at what age?

Where to Start Looking

These are good starting points for breeder searches (but still require you to vet each breeder carefully):

AKC Marketplace – Use filters for “Breeders of Merit” or “Bred with H.E.A.R.T.”
Parent Breed Clubs – National clubs often have breeder referral lists.
Good Dog – Look for breeders rated “Excellent” in health testing.

If you’d like more personalized guidance, I can help you evaluate breeders and even support you through the decision-making process as a part of my Comprehensive Puppy Prep Program.

✅ Green Flags (Good Breeder)	🚩 Red Flags (Questionable Breeder)
Titled parents: Dogs proven in conformation, sports, or work — showing sound structure and temperament.	Untitled dogs: No proof of quality but still bred. May claim “champion lines” without actual titles.
Focus on health & temperament: Structure and stability come before appearance.	Appearance-driven: Breeds for off-standard colors (e.g., “English cream” Goldens, “red” Labs, merle Poodles, lilac Frenchies).
Standard sizes: Dogs bred within the breed standard for size.	Extreme sizes: “Teacup” Yorkies/Poms/Chihuahuas or “XL/Giant” Shepherds & Pit Bulls.
Appropriate puppy age: Puppies go home at 10–12 weeks, giving extra time with their dam and litter to learn social skills.	Too young: Puppies go home before 8 weeks (illegal) or at 8 weeks, missing key interactions with their dam and litter.
No early sterilization: Doesn’t require spay/neuter before 12 months (18–24 months for large breeds), in line with current research on long-term health.	Early sterilization required: Contract mandates altering before proper development.
Early socialization: Puppies handled, exposed to sounds, surfaces, grooming, people; may use ENS.	Poor or no socialization: Socialization is limited or breeder is unable to answer questions about their socialization protocol.
Foundational training: Starts crate training, potty, or litter box training before puppies go home.	No preparation: Puppies leave with zero training foundations.
Lifetime responsibility: Breeder takes back dogs at any age to prevent shelter surrenders.	No responsibility: Won’t accept dogs back; “no returns” policy.
Transparency: Allows visits, video calls, and provides references from past buyers.	Secretive: Refuses visits, won’t show dam, insists on off-site meetups only.
Health guarantee: Written coverage for genetic/congenital issues, with clear resolution terms.	No guarantee: Offers little or vague coverage (e.g., “7-day warranty”).
Puppy care: Vet-checked, vaccinated, and dewormed with full records provided.	Neglects care: Puppies sold unvaccinated or with no valid documentation.
Litter frequency: Dams bred occasionally with well-spaced, planned litters.	Overbreeding: Dam bred every heat or back-to-back litters.
Balanced contract: Clear, fair terms covering health, support, and buyer/breeder responsibilities.	One-sided contract: Focuses only on payment or includes unreasonable demands.
Buyer education: Provides a thorough puppy packet with training, feeding, and veterinary guidance.	No education: Puppies handed off with little to no instructions or resources.
Buyer screening: Requires an application and asks thoughtful questions (children, yard, other pets, work schedule, goals) to ensure the right fit.	No screening: Sells to anyone with money; no application, no questions asked.
Advertising: Professional, fact-based language emphasizing health and structure.	Gimmicky ads: Uses buzzwords like “rare color,” “hypoallergenic guarantee,” or “Disney dog.”
Breeder involvement: Active in breed clubs, follows Code of Ethics, competes in shows/trials.	No involvement: Isolated, dismisses breed standards, avoids clubs and mentoring.